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Challenging. Damp. Pleasantly surprising.
The 2011 vintage has been all of these and more. As the wettest growing season on record for the district, we have discovered that a sturdy raincoat, tenacity, sharing advice with other local growers, and a commitment to making the best possible wine has all contributed to a positive outcome for a potentially difficult year.
The first fruit off the vine was Pinot Noir for the Lake George Rosé. Picked in early March to reduce the risk of early disease onset, a recent tasting of the young wine demonstrated a light, elegant palate with distinctive strawberry aromas. Lovely.
A week later the Pinot Gris started coming in. We decided to pick the fruit at two different ripening points: the first batch was picked early to maintain freshness, acidity and ensure minimum botrytis influence, whilst the second had riper flavours, a higher sugar level and around 5% botrytis to add complexity and depth to the palate. Both batches were hand sorted to ensure that only desirable botrytis and sound fruit was processed.
We had a busy two weeks in the barrel room at the end of March as the Chardonnay started coming in. 50% of the juice was fermented in French oak for the wooded Chardonnay, and the remainder has been set aside for our fresh, lively unwooded Chardonnay. The barrel ferments went through smoothly and will be routinely hand-stirred over the next 11 months to add richness, depth and palate weight to the elegant base wine.
During late April the main focus was on fermenting and pressing our reds. We were very happy with the Merlot and Cabernet Franc that were scrupulously picked and sorted to ensure that no diseased fruit was processed. Both varieties have just finished fermenting and will be moved to barriques to mature for the rest of the year until they are blended by our tasting panel to produce a structured, complex, full-bodied red wine.
At the moment, we are pressing Pinot Noir, filling barrels and keeping a close eye on the Shiraz Viognier that has just started ferment. Even at this early stage, red fruit aromas and are prominent and the distinctive viognier lift is coming through. A very promising start for one of our flagship wines.
We pick the botrytis Pinot Gris in the week beginning 2 May. That will signal the end of the vintage. Now for the hard work in the winery…
Jim, Anne, Malcolm (winemaker) & Faye (assistant winemaker)
1 May 2011
We tasted the 2010 whites : Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and Viognier, two days ago and what a relief. The vintage has been so challenging with early warm weather in November accelerating ripening, and then heavy rain in early February bringing on bunch rots. We were forced to be extremely selective in picking only the cleaner bunches, and them working hard on the sorting table to see that everything that got into the press was 100% free of mould. The only exception was in the Pinot Gris, where a tiny bit of botrytis can add a little complexity. However, even here, we discarded about 5% of the crop. Because of the discards and because we are tending to sell out earlier than we would like, we 'looked over the fence' so to speak and brought in some lovely fruit from our next door neighbour at Lake George, some from 40 year-old vines.
The results prove that adversity can sometimes be the ally of excellence. The wines are lovely, with levels of varietal aromatics that we have not seen before. We cannot wait to get them into the bottle and let them settle down. Except of course for the Chardonnay which is looking forward to an 11 month sojourn in oak interrupted by fortnightly lees stirring. When it emerges , it should be at least the equal of the 2006, our multi-award winner that has beaten almost all of Australia's top Chardonnays in different shows.
There is also rather a lot of botrytis Pinot Gris, but since this required extensive settling and racking to clean up the slightly excessive botrytis character, it is still fermenting and won't be ready for evaluation for a few months - around the time of the Fireside Festival master class we hope. See the full Fireside program here...
The reds are less straightforward. Quantities are down slightly due to the need for rigorous culling to eliminate every last vestige of bunch rot. However, once again we obtained some very promising fruit from our next door neighbour's vineyard. Overall the vintage was very early , with picking almost done by mid-April - still later than most of Australia, but much earlier than in the past when we have been picking in May, and in 2005, in June. What effect this acceleration in ripening will have on wine quality is hard to tell at this stage. We should have a better idea by July. Our guess is that the wines will be a little lighter than 2008/09, and certainly lower in alcohol than the 2005 and 2006 vintages. None of this is necessarily a bad thing and it could be quite good. Certainly, there is no evidence of premature ageing due to the problems caused by the rain , which is testimony to the unwavering attention to detail of the sorting table crews, braving bee stings and bad backs to keep the fruit clean.
I will keep you posted!
Jim Lumbers
Proprietor